Odilon by Stacey Clark showed for the first time at NY Fashion week this season, and while they are only in their third season as a label, the brand has a reputation for a minimalist aesthetic and some fancy fabrics. my interest was piqued. the Canadian born Clark (who spent many years as an equestrian show jumper, natch) received wonderful press from WWD, being named one of the "12 New Designers to Watch Around the Globe," but i was still unsure about what to expect when i arrived at the Metropolitan Pavilion for the show.
the inspiration for the collection was the greek goddess Persaphone and her "transformation from a young, naive girl into the womanly, unwilling queen of the underworld." when i arrived backstage, i saw sinewy models having their hands painted black, grey, and brick red and slipping into clothes with long, striking lines. their make-up, done by airbrushing afficiandos Temptu
, was dramatic with a very heavy eye and a nude lip...and the aforementioned colored hands on a few girls. stylist Marco Santini gave hair texture with Davines salt spray and then brushed it out and mussed to elaborate on the rock 'n roll, goddess of the underworld vibe.
while milling around backstage waiting for the show to start, we were both taken by how striking the incredibly long lines of the clothes were, and how strong the collection was, even just looking at it while it was being pieced together backstage.
(little known fact: backstage is not the best way to view a look. it's the best place to get an up-close look at the fabric, cut, and construction of the garment, but the runway/presentation stage is the best place to get the full effect. music, lighting, attitude..it all comes together out there in a way that it just doesn't happen backstage..)
once the show began, we headed out to view the collection and i have to be honest, i fell in love.
the run of the show from left to right. the most girly and innocent looks were to the left...looks from the beginning of Persaphone's transformation.
i really felt for a similar style (in wide-legged pants) at Jeremy Laing, but i prefer this long skirt with the flutter hemline. the crop top is in perfect proportion with the volume of the skirt, and the hem adds femininity without taking away from overall toughness of the look.
beautiful long lines, and the red hands are very devil-may-care... a very well constructed look.
(more after jump..click on!)
short, girly hemlines were also in the midst, yet didn't seem out of place amongst the long, striking lines. quite the contrary, the shorter mini dresses with well-constructed waistlines and pleats with raw edges gave light to the bit of young girl left in all of us...not the mention the young girl still left in Odilon's Persaphone.
Clark also played with texture, using black pony hair to embellish one jacket, and luxurious fur to construct a vest. on both, the lines are clean and very simple, letting the volume and texture speak for itself.
Clark put a few chic little capelets out in the collection..perhaps her equestrian background shining through?
ah my creme de la creme... this floor length, hooded black coat blew me away. a total knock out. this girl strode past me backstage on her way out in this coat and i was in awe. the coat is so dramatic, so well cut and well tailored..it'd stop anyone in their tracks. in my head, i'm thinking of the practical problems that would arise from wearing a floor length coat, but fashion isn't practical, and just wearing this out ONE TIME would be enough for me. it's stunning and took my breath away.
run of the show from right...the looks getting darker as Persaphone's transformation to the goddess of the underworld became comeplete.
overall, an incredibly strong showing for Odilon's first run at NYFW. the clothes are very strong, well constructed, super chic...and most importantly, cohesive. Stacey Clark told us a story from beginning to end. from the line-up of the girls to the progression of looks to the run of the music, a world was created and Persaphone's story was told.
and that's the kind of label i like..one that takes me somewhere i wouldn't have normally gone. by the time i left, i was sold. Odilon is definitely a label to watch. my eye is on that floor length coat....
check Odilon out on their website.
all pictures are property of Stilettos on Sullivan.