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style + fashion

the art of getting dressed.

Marc Jacobs - Spring/Summer 2012

Caitlin Surakitbanharn

Marc usually shows on the Monday of each fashion week, but due to NYC's infamous brush with Hurricane Irene, he chose to push his show out to Thursday, in turn, closing out New York Fashion Week.  this change in time slot actually turned out to be quite thrilling - an incredible climax to a long week that was, while colorful and happy, at times repetitive.  one thing i've learned in my years as a fashion slave is that you cannot predict what Marc will show.  last seasons it was strict, severe, sexy women stomping down a white padded-cell-like runway to Marilyn Manson in polka dot adorned whip straight skirts and dresses, their long ponytails swinging in unison. this season, we got Bob Fossi girls posing on the stage and then sashaying down the runway as if leaving the dance hall as Philip Glass' Einstein on the Beach Knees 1 played dramatically through the Lexington Avenue armory.

the shapes of Marc's spring collection were a relaxed, almost western take on his previous season.  waists were dropped, gingham oxford shirts were shown underneath dresses and skirts that were twisted and knotted at the low hip in an almost saran-wrap-esque fabric, sequin tops thrown over said gingham shirts, and in a nod to the roaring 20's (or so it seemed), the girls' stockings were loose, although did not come off as ill-fitting, bunching around their ankles and actually drawing more attention to the beautiful lady-like mary jane pumps with a carved wooden heel and the no-fuss but SUPER chic two-tone oxford loafers.  oh, and we can't forget the clear plastic cowboy boots.

the shapes themselves were a throwback to the dance hall eras of the 1920's and 1940's, but in true Marc Jacobs fashion, he made it all jarringly relevant with technical, almost futuristic fabrics.  the saran-wrap plastic of the skirts and dresses, the plastic pailettes that embellished tops and skirt hems, and most beautifully...the almost reflective gingham of the oxfords and one particular pair of mary jane heels.  even the flapper dress and skirts that swished past me had an element of the future; the fringe seemed almost plastic (though i cannot be sure until i run my fingers through it..which i'm dying to do!).








the sequined sweatshirts over the technical chiffon skirt is a level i cannot even....discuss yet.







the dropped waist in embossed yellow crocodile with a flirty, feminine hemline... i can't. i'm dying.



great view of the technical gingham - in a slipdress thrown over a flapper-fringed skirt. i mean...right?


the detail of the embellishment in this dress and coat is why Marc is probably the new couturier at Dior.


please notice the beading work on the jacket + the chemise tank top + the beading work on the skirt + the yellow shoes + the yellow bag + the scalloped trim of the skirt = CHIC.

a genius takes his bow.

rumors are swirling that Marc is slated to take over for Dior - and there's no question that he's the right person for the job.  what he's done at Louis Vuitton is of course, amazing, but what he's done with his own line is innovate.  American fashion is nothing without Marc.  he's the true maverick of the industry, never afraid to play with reference, movement, shape, femininity, masculinity, and time....and it's what keeps him relevant.  he's grown his namesake line into the most recognized name in American fashion and this season's collection just further drives the point home.  1920's and 40's shapes in the year 2050 fabrics?  yeah.

Marc continues to innovate and this season, he redefined what it is for a woman to dress modern.



(all photos via vogue.com)